East Belukha
(4506 m n.p.m.)
(Уч-Сумер), (Кадын-Бажы), Ak-Su-Riu, Mus-Dy-Tau, 4506 m high Belukha, sparkling with ice ad snow, is the highest point of Siberia, a temple of the Altai Mountains. It is located in the south Russia on the border with Kazakhstan, in Katunskie Belki, being a part of Altai Mountains. It has got two peaks – the east (4506 m) and the west (4460 m), covered with glaciers (70 km²). The first man who was close to the summit was F. Gebler in 1835; in 1848, this area was examined by T.W. Atkinson; in 1897, W.W. Sapozhnikov ascended the pass between two peaks (from the south side). In 1903, S. Turner reached the point of 4200 m. The first ascent took place on 26th June 1914 and was made by Michail and Boris Tronov. In 1933, the main summit was traversed from the north to the south. The west peak was reached on 12th July 1936 by the team: P. Aleksiejev, W.M. Bielov, Bilewicz, Iziergin, I. Korzun, Lebiediev, I.W. Pieczerski, Timszev. The first ski tour ascent: M. Ivanov, I. Szczerbakov, D. Szostov. The first run down the north-east wall was made by: A. Kim, W. Martynov, W. Birjukov. The shortest time of ascent is 6, 45 h – this record was made by Siergiej Brodzki. The first Polish ascent: 16th August 2002 Jakub Zygarowicz with team.
About the Altai Mountains:
a mountain range in the Asian part of Russia and in China,Mongolia and Kazakhstan, approximately 2000 km long. The name of the mountains derives from Turkish Al (gold), tau (mount); in Mongolian it means the "Mountains of Gold". They were created during the Caledonian and Variscan orogeny and renewed during the alpine orogeny (horsts). They are built of different Palaeozoic rocks ( granite, slate, sandstone), in places covered by Tertiary (clay, sand) and Quaternary forms (loess).
The Altai Range is divided into three ranges:
- Proper Altai– the north-west part, with irregular ranges. Average heigth: 3 500 - 4 000 m. The highest peak – Belukha Mountain 4506 m.
- Mongolian Altai– central part, consists of parallel ranges, lowering towards the south-east and and finishing with rather low Gobi Altai. Average heigth: 2 000 - 4 000 m. The highest peak – Kuitun, 4356 m.
- Gobi Altai – the highest parts are of alpine type, lower part is dominated by flat low ridges with steep slopes, cut by gorges.
The Katun Mountains – rextend between two rivers: Argun on the east and katun on the west. Main peaks of these mountains are: Belukha (4506 m), Pik 20-liet Oktyabrya (4178 m), Pik 50-let KPSS (3967 m), Pik Sapozknikova (3950 m), Pik Gieroiczewskaya Koryeya (3900 m), Shenyelu (3888 m), Uraltash (3716 m), Uralec (3600 m). the mountain are built of granite and metamorphic slate. The greatest glaciers: Miensu (13,2 km²). Akkiem (10,4 km²), Myushtuayry (10,4 km²), Balshoy Berelskiy (10,3 km²). Snow line is on the heigth of 2700-2800 m, glaciers lower down to 2000 m.
There are many tectonic valleys.
Mountain and alpine climate, approx. 800 glaciers with a total surface of 600 km². There are over 3000 lakes and many rivers (sources of Ob and Irtysh) with a significant water energy resources (approx. 13 millions kW). The alpine part (above 1700-2500 m) covered by meadows and mountain tundra; in the lower part, there are abundant forests (approx. 70% of the Altai Mountains area) changing over to steppe and on the east – to half-deserts. There are also great mineral resources, especially in the area of the Rudny Altai Mountains: zinc, copper, lead, gold, iron, mercury. In the Kuznetsk Basin there are great coal deposits. Since 1998, it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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| Original and wild nature of the Katun Mountains, Belukha Mountain, the highest peak of Altai Mountains |
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| crevasses, avalanches, falling rocks, burns, frostbites, 'dirty hands' diseases, wild animals |
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The Altai Mountains are wonderful. They are as high as the Alps, yet they are almost deprived of tourist infrastructure. Many valleys are completely wild. You can admire clean forests, lakes and mountain peaks covered by snow. Those who like a close contact with nature and expeditions on which one can only rely on himself and people from his team should visit this area.
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Program:
- ligth from Warsaw to Yekaterinburg – May 21.
- Departure from Yekaterinburg: May 22 (Friday) by train to Severobaykalsk and to Novosibirsk, May 23 (Saturday) at 2:39 p.m.
- Departure Novosibirsk, arrival at Biysk: May 24, 3:20 a.m.
- Drive to base camp 'Vysotnik', station: Tiungur - 24 May, departure from Biysk at 8:00 a.m.
- Climbing: May 25 – June 3 (10 days). Descent to the base 'Vysotnik' –June 4.
- Drive from 'Vysotnik', to Bijsk – June 5 after breakfast.
- Drive from Biysk to Novosibirsk – June 5.
- Arrival at Yekaterinburg – June 7 (Sunday).
- Flight to Poland.
Mountain action:
- 1 day
Travel from Bijsk to the Tiungur station (10-12 hours). We are planning to make some breaks for meals in wayside cafes. We will accomplish formalities connected with getting permits to the Katun Reserve in Talda. Arrival at station 'Vysotnik'. Accomodation, dinner and baths.
- 2 day
Тrekking: ''Wysotnik"(850 m) - Kuzuyak Pass (1513 m) – Glade 'Three Birches'.
Overnight on the glade, in tents. Meals will be prepared on the fire. Route: 6 - 8 h (17 km).
- 3 day
Further walking along the river Akkem. Overight in tents. (6-8 h /11 km).
- 4 day
Way to a weather station (2000m) located near the Ak-Kem Lake. Route: 6-8 h (11 km).
- 5 day
The weather station – the Ak-Kem Glacier. Lodging in Tomsk (3000m). Ascent on approx. 1000 m. Crossing the Ak-Kem river on a small, tottery bridge. Reaching the glacier is uncertain. Climbing on a rocky moraine on the left from the glacier is necessary. Overnight in a hut located on a scree. Route: 6-8 hours (17 km).
- 6 day
Lodging in Tomsk – Delone Pass (3400) – the Mensu glacier (3100m) – Berelskoye Saddle mountain pass (3520 m) - the plateau (3800 m). Length: approx. 300 m. Snow-ice wall: 35o- 45o steep. Descent to the Mensu glacier. Descending is not difficult but there are many crevasses and splits. Ascent to the Berelskoye Saddle mountain pass and on the plateau is also easy but it requires persistence. Overnight in tents on the plateau. Route: 7-8 h, 7 km.
- 7 day
Climbing East Belukhe (4506m). Moving roped, among crevasses, over the the Belukhinsky pass. Then, climb the pass on a steep snow-ice wall. The way back is the same (40o- 45o steep). Length: approx. 250m. From the pass the route leads along an ice-rock ridge and then along a mild ridge. The way back is the same. Route: 7-9 h.
- 8 day
Descent. The plateau - Mensu glacier – Delone pass, overnight in the hut in Tomsk.
- 9 day
Descent to the weather station. Overnight in a base of the Department of Extraordinary Situations or in the station. Baths.
- 10 day
Sighseeing - Shambala. Descent from the station. Overnight in tents.
- 11 day
Descent to the 'Three Birches' camp.
- 12 day
Comeback to the base 'Vysotnik'. Overnight. Baths.
- 13 day
Breakfast. Travel to Biysk. Comeback by train 'Biysk – Novosibirsk'.
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Required equipment: backpack (min. 80 l.), foam pad, down-filled sleeping bag, high quality warm alpine boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiners (4 pieces), belay ropes, helmet.
Required clothes:
windstopper suit, warm clothes (wool or polar fleece), 2 t-shirts, socks - 4 pairs, woolen socks – 2 pairs, underwear, woolen or polar hat, woolen gloves, tarpaulin gloves, boot lamps.
Additional equipment:
sunglasses, headlamp, sun cream and lipstick, mug, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, brush and toothpaste.
Personal first aid kit: pills – against cold, fever, stomachache, heartache; adhesive bandages, bandage, ascorbic acid, vitamins.
*See: [Full gear list]
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From: 2012-05-19 till: 2012-06-05
Participants will be informed about the exact date and time of departure by e-mail or phone
APPLICATION: 20 days earlier
DURATION: 19 DAYS |
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900$ + przelot Warszawa - Jekaterynburg - Warszawa
Included:
- stay in tourist base 'Vysotnik' and in tents,
- food (3 times) to be prepared on your own in fire or on a stove,
- delivering the whole group's equipment (tents, ropes, ice-axe, ice tools, burners, dishes),
- travel from Biysk to Tiungur station (two ways),
- all permits,
- alpine health insurance
Not included:
- Russian visa
- travel to Novosibirsk, travel to Biysk and the way back,
- meals in towns and on a way to the Tiungur station and back,
- baths in base camp 'Vysotnik' and in a weather station 'Ak-Kem'.
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"Czternastu alpinistów" - artykuł w dziale publikacje.
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Zdjęcia z wejscia na Biełuchę w galerii klubowej.
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